Hi everyone. I am the proud owner of a new to me 2013 Wellcraft fisherman 252. I found this blog while I was searching the net for help.
I purchased the boat in Florida and sent it to Houston. As a typical male, I did not ask questions; and now I do not understand the electrical battery swithches and the dealer is no longer interested in helping me.
The boat came with 3 batteries, 2 engines and 2 battery switches. The first one is just on and off. The second is Off, 1, 1+2 and 2. I do not understand how it works. I know that normal is to operate the boat normally in 1 or 2 and if the batteries are low or the engines have difficulties in starting, use 1+2. I do not know the function of the fist on/off switch and how the third battery is connected. Any info will be greatly appreciated.

I also have a couple of questions as the boat seems odd. One is the bilge compartiment. It is large and have plenty of space; but the access behind the rear seat is not large enough to get inside; and since the compartment is too large, I cannot reach all the components from the outside. How do you work in there. Do you need to find a small person to get in the bilge?

The other area is the battery compartment inside the center console. It is located below the front seat so you do not get to see the connections as the batteries are below the seat. Do you have to get the batteries out to charge them or does the panel where the battery switch are? Again, any info on the subject will be greatly appreciated.
In a year I will know everything on the boat; but know I am totally ignorant.

Anyone interested in replacement weatherstripping for the windows of you 230 or 260 I had dies made to extrude new rubber WS.

Off Hours II

Any one have or now where i can find a detailed model specific service manual? I need some help with the plumbing of the waste discharge pump system.

Hey every happy wellcraft owner i am new at this forum and i really hope You can help me out
Im searching for the aluminium list on the windshield (driverside).
I attached a photo so You understand what i say because im from Sweden! THE boat is a wellcraft Excel 26 1998
Have a great Day!
// Viktor Albinsson

I had an engine replaced in spring of 2018. Last season I only had 5 hours on new engine and it started every time. With boat out of storage and summarized I am having difficulty keeping it started. Once it shuts down I can not restart it just cranks. Its not been on long enough to overheat and the gauges look good. Prior to replacing engine I had fuel pump, alternator, and water pump replaced. The plugs and cables were replaced in 2016 but I have not taken boat out of marina all that much so there are not many hours on plugs and cables.

I was out boating around in the bay for about 30min just cruising at 25mph and then all the sudden I am dead in the water as engine cuts out, all gauges functioning properly except the battery voltage (registering 0V) I initially think the kill switch got pulled so I inspect and pull it out then back in and try to crank the motor. It cranks, but no Ignition (no electrical signal to the spark plugs). I then try to bypass the kill switch and jump the wires with a jumper wire and crank again and almost instantly it fries my 22AWG jumper wire (the kill switch wire is like an 18awg) So I decide to try again by simple jumping the leads directly to each other and try again and after 15 seconds of cranking with no engine coughs or running I check the wires and they are HOT! So why is that kill switch circuit getting the excess current? Could my ignition switch be bad and sending the wrong current to the kill switch or could something else in the kill switch circuit be causing the issue?

After about an hour of checking plugs and fuses (didn't replace anything just take apart and put back together) I get the battery meter to start registering again and she starts and runs fine (With the bypassed Switch).

I am scratching my head on how or why this is happening anyone have an idea?

-Peter

I located the leak in the cabin but I have no idea on how to repair it. I have attached a photo where the water is coming in. When the boat is brought up on plane then slowed to allow the bow to come down it leaks from that location every time.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated

When I turn sharply the I hear a clicking if I move back and fourth the wheel will continue to turn. I assume I need a steering cable. Is this something anyone can do or do I need a real mechanic? I have twin engines so do I need 2 steering cables? Is there a steering cable that is better than others? How do I find the correct cable? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks
Bill

I am Putting in a Dual Battery system and have a Question on the Negative battery cables for it.
Here is what I am Thinking of putting forward and am wondering if tis would raise any red flags for any reason?


Instead of piggy backing off the current battery's negative cable for the secondary battery, I will run its own negative cable to the Engine(Bell Housing) at a different closer location, then I Will also link them together with a Jumper cable effectively to increase the negative connections to the Engine(Bell Housing).

Additionally is there any need or benefit to Run a negative cable on the Engine (Bell Housing) to anywhere else on this boat like maybe to one or two of the Through hole bolts in the Transom Mount that are below water level?

Anyone see an issue with the positive wires to the tilt/trim?
I wanted it to work even if the battery selector is in the off position or if in position A and that battery is dead.

I already have all the Tinned Cable and Connecters I need, just want to ensure this plan isn't going to cause an unforeseen issue I may be over looking.

Any Electrical Guru's out there care to chime in?

Thanks in Advance
-Peter

Hi,
Live in Kansas City. Boat is at housed at Lake of the Ozarks. This is our first season with this boat. Slowly working on getting it all in working order. Hoping to draw upon everyone's knowledge in these areas.