Wellcraft Boat Owners Forum

Hi WEllCRAFT friends,

I have a 1996 Scarab sporster 26 center console and the capacity plate is non readable. I'm looking for info for max HP rating for this hull. I've read that it's 300 HP but wanted to reach out to the gurus and ask here. Any help is much appreciated. - Ted

Hello,

Yes that’s my impression too, 300 hp max.

When I bought my ‘92 Sportster in 2008 I ordered some brochures online and that’s what they stated.
I’ll have to take a look at my capacity plate again.
I run a 250 and a 9.9 kicker for fishing and backup.

Nice ride Enjoy!

Thanks for posting back. By any chance does the plate on the console have capacity info? Could you post a photo? State Farm won't insure me without documentation of capacity plate or manufactures owners manual info.

Any help much appreciated - Thanks

Ted

SPORSTER26 wrote:Source of the post Thanks for posting back. By any chance does the plate on the console have capacity info? Could you post a photo? State Farm won't insure me without documentation of capacity plate or manufactures owners manual info.

Any help much appreciated - Thanks

Ted

My apologies for missing your last post!
I'll take a look and I also have a brochure from a '95 model if that would help your cause.

Escal that would be great if you have owner's manual info. That's exactly what insurance company is asking for. I really appreciate your help!

I sent you a pm.

No data plaque on mine, I think prior to 2010 and longer than 20’ it wasn’t a requirement.

It has a general certification sticker on console but it’s just a boat builders association sticker, no model info.

Lower text in bottom photo also references max horsepower, single or twins to 300 hp.

Thank you very much ESCAL! That is exactly what i've been hunting for all over the internet. Very cool. You made my week for sure. Very nice to know I can run a 300 and still be within manufacturer limits. Now I begin combing through the hull making sure I have a solid boat.

BTW my cap is tabbed to the hull throughout. Under front deck and entire stern area - everywhere I can look it's tabbed and through bolted at the rub rail. Solid construction in this regard.

Yes it’s built solid and well.

Only weak link for me is the floor around the aft cockpit and hatches, it’s delaminating and will have to be addressed at sometime.
It’s probably failing in that area due to the higher traffic while fishing and running the down riggers. Our freezing winters expanded the moisture that was in there and separated the glass from the core.

I’ve recored my hatches and fuel tank cover panel. The wood had become wet and delaminated but wasn’t rotten.
They had used squares of marine plywood as the core, roughly 4”x4” pieces and over the years water had got in via the hinge screws and handles.

I did a rigid foam core replacement but will do Coosa core next time.

Other than that some of the plastic side tubs(rod holders) are aging but that’s to be expected for 30 year old plastic. An upholstery shop can do backside plastic repairs and wrap with vinyl.

If your pod is anything other than the glas/aluminum original then that’s a good thing.
I took it off as it was not a design I liked and not friendly for mounting a kicker, glad I did because it was so over built and heavy (and water soaked) that the new aluminum pod I had made was 110 pounds lighter, enough to compensate for my kicker lol.

What's the "pod" referring to? I've used Coosa #26 on a transom before and really liked it. The cost though....... ugh!